Health & Medical Archives - Page 4 of 17

Sparkle Bar: Shampoo Bar for Your Dog

August 25, 2015

A shampoo bar? For a dog?

What Is It?

In short, it’s a bar of shampoo. Y’know: like a bar of soap except that it’s shampoo instead. It’s the latest product from The Honest Kitchen and we tried it out on our dogs (and ourselves)!

What’s It Good For?

This is a great, easy, and smell good way to get your dog clean. I know, we’re used to shampoo being liquid. But it doesn’t have to be. It can come in bar form! I like using bar shampoo because I can get all the bubbles I need in all the right places. Need extra soap right there under the armpit? Just rub the bar there! No shampoo dripping down your arm or into the bathtub.

How Do You Use It?

Get your dog wet, get the soap wet, and start scrubbing! Each bar will last you about 18 baths for a 30 pound dog. I think it also depends on how much hair — a smaller, long coated dog is going to use a lot more than a larger, super short coated dog.

What We Loved About It

It’s handmade. Yep, for real. We make our own soap (for people) and as soon as I took the bar out of the box, I knew instantly it was handmade. It’s pretty impressive to get something handmade from a big company these days.
Delicious smell. I wish I could pump the fragrance through your speakers. The scent alone would make you buy it. There are three different scents: Apple Cider Vinegar, Diatomaceous Earth, Calendula, Comfrey & Aloe, and Lavender, Cedar, Juniper & Rosemary. Holy cow, the smell is incredible.
It works on people, too! I’m not gonna lie, I tried it. And loved it. The smell…so good.
Works well, rinses easily.

How You Can Get One

Check out The Honest Kitchen’s website where you can order the Sparkle Bars.

Slippery Floor Tough on Your Older Dog? Try This!

August 21, 2015

Traction on hardwood floors is hard to come by.

Almost all of the flooring in our house is hardwood or tile. We have dogs, hard floors are easier to keep clean than carpeting. However, our dog family is getting older. Three of our dogs are past their first decade, and our oldest at 13.5 years is having an increasingly hard time getting traction on those hard floors.

I’d been investigating ways to help her gain some traction including booties (which Lily would despise), little sticky pieces of plastic you stick to the pads of their paws (again, Lily would despise that), and even something called toe grips. Knowing Lily and her persnickety ways, I knew I had to find a solution that did not involve putting anything on her, but rather I had to find something I could actually put on the floor.

Now before you start suggesting scatter rugs, know that (until very recently) we had a cat that just loved to pee on any rug or dog bed on the floor. Throw rugs or runners were absolutely out of the question. Plus, they’re just one more thing to vacuum. The reason we took the carpet out was so I could sweep all the dirt up and get it out of the house. Adding scatter rugs everywhere sort of defeats the purpose.

At about the same time I was running out of ideas, the folks from HandiRamp happened to reach out to me with their Puppy Treads (TM). I was intrigued when they told me these were applied directly to the floor — that meant I could leave Lily’s paws out of the equation, making both our lives a whole lot better. I gladly accepted their offer to try some of their Puppy Treads (TM).

Here’s our experience with Puppy Treads (TM).

I put them at the spots where Lily usually loses traction. When she hears my husband’s truck in the driveway, she beelines it to the door which involves making a sharp right turn on laminate flooring — it’s very much like an ice rink and she routinely spins out and falls right on her rump. I tried using the treads in two different ways: I used a full strip in one location. And in another location, I cut the strip into smaller, thinner pieces, like so:

Puppy Treads, non skid traction, dog traction, Smart Dog University, dog training, dog obedience, Frederick, clicker

Yes, I left the dirt and hair on the floor. If you have dogs, hopefully you’re used to seeing floors like this and you’re not grossed out by it. In any event, that’s what I did with the Puppy Treads. Those have been on the floor now for about a month and have seen some seriously heavy dog paw and human foot traffic. This is probably the most heavily trafficked area in our house and the treads held up quite well here — no curling up or anything. We’ve had rain, too, so there have been wet and muddy foot- and paw-traffic on them and still they’ve stayed stuck.

Caveats

If the dogs take a different path to the door, where there aren’t any Puppy Treads, they’ll still slip and fall. I can’t Puppy Tread the entire family room floor, so I’ve tried to choose the most likely routes. I haven’t mopped the Puppy Treads a whole lot, so I can’t speak to how long they’d hold up if you mopped your floors every day. (Hahaha, mopping floors everyday; who does that?) Also, if you’re using the Puppy Treads on a high gloss real wood floor, I don’t know if the Puppy Treads would take any of the polyurethane off the floor when the Puppy Treads are removed. My guess is that they wouldn’t remove the poly (that’s pretty tough stuff), but because I didn’t try them on actual hardwood, I can’t speak to that flooring material.

About Puppy Treads

Size: 6″ high by 24″ long. They are easy to cut down to any size with a pair of regular scissors.
They’re fairly translucent, but it’s clear (haha) that they’re on the floor. The higher the gloss on the floor, the more readily apparent the treads will be.
Durability: they’ve withstood 16 paws and four feet for the past month without any trouble at all. That includes rainy and muddy weather.
Stick and unstick: these are easily removed whenever you want them to come up. If they’ve been down for awhile, I don’t think they’ll re-stick again with the same intensity as the first time around. Most important to me, though, wasn’t that I could move them from here to there, but that I could remove them without having to clean a lot of sticky residue afterward. I’ve since taken one of the treads completely off the floor and there wasn’t anything left behind.
They’re made right here in the U.S. (Illinois)
Made of vinyl and graded “high traction” by the National Floor Safety Institute.

These would be great on hardwood stairs — for people and dogs. We have only one set of stairs in our house (and they’re carpeted), so I didn’t have the opportunity to experiment with them on stairs, but I think that’s where they’d really shine.

Pricing

Per Puppy Tread: $7.99

4 Puppy Treads: $29.95

10 Puppy Treads: $69.95

If your dogs (or you!) are having traction problems on your floors, take a look at Puppy Treads. They fit the bill for us and have helped give Lily some added stability.

4 Ways to Help Your Dog’s Thunderstorm Phobia

July 15, 2015

dog, thunderstorm, fireworks, sound phobia, phobia, dog phobia, dog training, Frederick, clicker It’s summertime and it feels like we’re barreling down Thunderstorm Alley. If your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, summer can feel nightmarish: checking radar every day, worrying that a storm will beat you home from work, hoping your dog doesn’t destroy the house, or panic to the point of self-injury.

Thunderstorm phobia is real.

Schooner reacts poorly to thunder, lightning, wind, and rain despite my best attempts to make rain and thunderstorms a fun time for him. As a young dog, he didn’t mind storms: wind, rain, lightning, or thunder didn’t bother him. Great Dane, rain, thunderstorm, phobia, fireworks, dog fear, dog phobia Now however, at the first rumble of thunder he starts to tremble, pant, and pace. If he’s got access to the bathroom in the basement, that’s where he prefers to ride out the storm. I consulted with the service dog agency and they reported that he didn’t have any trouble with storms while he was there. We can’t put our finger on what changed in the month or so that he’s been with us, but we’ve implemented an approach that we hope helps ease our big guy’s mind about things that go boom in the night.

What’s helping.

I got a Adaptil collar for him.

Adaptil is a synthetic copy of the natural comforting pheromone released by a mother dog to reassure her puppies. Research has shown that Adaptil not only helps puppies but also dogs of all ages who are stressed and anxious about thunderstorms and fireworks, veterinary visits, car travel, new additions to the family, and more. Adaptil comes in a few forms: a room diffuser and a collar. They used to offer a spray (which we loved — use it as needed, just spray it in the car, crate, or wherever it might be needed), but couldn’t find that option on the U.S. version of the website at the writing of this article. We chose the collar option so Schooner would have the benefit of the pheromone all the time. If we used the room diffuser on the main floor where he spends 95% of his time, then he wouldn’t have it available to him when he runs to the downstairs bathroom when it storms.

“Music hath charms to soothe the savage beast.” — William Congreve.

It’s true! We got Through a Dog’s Ear to help soothe Schoon’s nerves and we’re finding that helpful not only for storms, but also while we’re away from the house. The over-arching psychoacoustic theory behind Through a Dog’s Ear is summed up in just two words — simple sound. This is basically the process of minimizing intricate auditory information found in most music. In other words, it’s not good enough to just leave the radio on — even if you’re playing classical music. That kind of music is too complex to help dogs relax. Through A Dog’s Ear music has been specially composed and recorded to be used to calm dogs. If you want the scientific research, it’s all here.

It’s better to treat fear or anxiety earlier, rather than later when it’s had a chance to grow or be generalized to other situations.

When we are in a fearful state, learning can’t take place. If Schooner is downstairs trembling and panting, I can’t help him feel better about storms. Nothing I do will actually make it’s way into his brain and stay there. To that end, we’re trying some medication to help with events such as thunderstorms or fireworks. The idea is to at least stop the event (thunderstorm) from continuing to strengthen Schooner’s fear. Medication is a way to open that window of opportunity so we can get a foothold into easing the fear. Veterinarians are on the front lines and are qualified to advise dog owners on whether their dog is a candidate for medication and to determine which medication would be most appropriate. As a trainer, I stand ready to implement the training and conditioning necessary to help teach dogs that thunder and lightning isn’t all bad, but I can only make progress if the dog is in a less fearful or anxious state. We’ve used the medication three times (two for thunderstorms, once for the 4th of July festivities) and we’re happy with the results. Schooner hasn’t made a run for the basement or given more than a passing glance at the storms or fireworks when he’s been medicated. He’s not “out of it,” either, for which I’m thankful. If another dog barks and runs outside, he’s up on his feet and hot on their heels.

Do you have a scaredy dog? What has worked for you?

Field Trip Friday: Stress Free Veterinary Visits

June 26, 2015

Stress Free Veterinary Visits

Schooner was great at the veterinary hospital when he was a young dog, but he was gone for 15 months at service dog graduate school — we have no way of knowing if his veterinary experiences were good while he was away, so today was Field Trip Friday! We went to the veterinary office just to hang out and have some fun at the veterinary hospital without any time constraints.

Good associations

It’s important to spend a little bit of time convincing your dog that the veterinary hospital, the technicians, and the veterinarians are cool, to-be-trusted people. There’s really only one way to do that: spend time at the veterinary hospital making good associations.

Why it’s important your dog be comfortable at the vet

The better exam your dog receives, the easier it is for the veterinarian to diagnose and treat your dog. Dogs that are easier to examine can get a more thorough examination than those dogs who are wiggly, afraid, or skittish. If your dog is so afraid or stressed out that he can’t be examined or treated, a sedative may need to be administered. This means extra time at the appointment, which often leads to extra cost — not to mention a less than ideal way to give a veterinary exam to a dog. When your dog is relaxed, you will also be relaxed. It’s a win-win for everyone involved.

How to do it

It can be as easy as going to the veterinarian when you don’t need anything. We have a veterinary visit scheduled next week. Because it’s been a couple years since Schooner has been to this hospital and because I have no way of knowing what his veterinary experiences were while he was gone, I took Schoons to the hospital this morning to just hang out and get acquainted with the place.

Here’s what we had with us:

mat (for “settle on your mat” exercises
clicker (naturally!)
treats (chopped summer sausage and colby jack cheese)

We didn’t have a timeline and we didn’t have any objectives (other than to have fun). I put the mat on the floor which immediately gave Schooner an idea where to hang out. I did some quick and easy “tricks” with him: sit, touch my hand with his nose, “look at me” game. He was really excited to hear the click and get the cheese or sausage. You could see the lightbulb turn on for him: “Oh! We’re going to play the clicker game? Ok, go! Tell me what to do!” He wasn’t worried about the three other dogs in the waiting room, the bird in the cage, or the wandering child who I don’t think could quite believe that dogs came that big.

The difference between “I’m not sure what’s going on here” to “I know exactly what to expect from you,” was immediately apparent in Schooner’s face when I put that mat on the floor and began working with him. It’s something I know will happen, but it doesn’t diminish my awe every time I see it. We practiced some basic “settle and relax” behaviors, and once he was settled in, I clicked him for being curious and polite.

When the hospital staff had an extra minute, they stopped by to say hello, feed some goodies, and then go about their duties. It was quite a low-key, “nothing happening here except fun” kind of visit. An exam room opened up and I asked if we could go in to practice in there, as well, seeing as how that’d be where all the action will be at his appointment on Monday. He got to do all that sniffing and exploring on his own and at his own pace. He got to really check everything out and seemed to be quite mesmerized with all the things he investigated.

We’ll be going to the vet “for nothing” some more, I’m sure. It’s a bit of time out of my day, but it sure will help Schooner feel better about his future vet visits! And in the end, a calm and comfortable dog is the best patient (which makes for a calm and comfortable ME)!

Bark at us: what have you done to help your dog enjoy his veterinary visits?

Dog Nail Trims Part 5: How to Trim Your Dog’s Nails with the Dremel – Video

April 23, 2015

Grinding a dog’s nails: Crazy or genius?

If you’ve been following our dog nail trimming series, you’ve already read (and watched) about getting to know your dog’s nails, the mistakes people make when trimming their dog’s nails, how to get your dog comfortable with having his paws handled, and how to introduce the grinding tool to your dog. In our fifth and final article in the nail trim series, you’ll learn exactly how to use the Dremel to trim your dog’s nails.

This is the easy part. You’ve already worked with your dog to get her used to having her paws held without fear or growling, and you’ve paired the noise of the Dremel tool with really tasty food. Now, all that’s left is to actually trim some nails!

Here’s how to trim your dog’s nails with grinding tool like the Dremel.

Provide a comfy spot for your dog to sit or lie down.
Have some of those fabulous treats at the ready.
Turn the Dremel on, ask your dog for her paw.
Hold the paw firmly, but gently and put the grinding tool directly on the dog’s nail briefly, grinding some of the nail.
Click (or yip) and let go of your dog’s paw.
Deliver a fabulous treat.
Repeat!

Be careful.

You want to tap, tap, tap the Dremel on the nail, not hold the Dremel there for any duration. The friction can heat the dog’s nail and it can be uncomfortable for the dog. If your dog is new to this, do just one nail and be done with the whole thing. You can give it another go tomorrow. Your main goal is to ensure the dog is enjoying the process and is voluntarily staying with you.

Talk back! Let me know how your grinding sessions go and if you like grinding better than clipping.

My Dog Has a Weird Butt Hole (aka Perianal Fistula)

March 16, 2015

perianal fistula, fistula, dog fistula, yellow lab, labrador, lab training, dog training, Smart Dog University, Frederick, clicker, There aren’t a whole lot of things that give me pause when it comes to blogging about dogs. I’ll talk to you about slobber, poop, pee, and vomit without batting an eye. One of my dogs, though, has what I call a weird butt hole and I’ve been sitting on this (hahaha) for about a month now, wondering if I should talk about it on the blog. Clearly, I’ve decided to talk about it, so here we go.

Tango, my favorite boy ever, has been having trouble pooping. I deemed him an “unproductive pooper” because he’d sometimes try and try, but only produce a tiny bit. For all the effort he was putting in, there wasn’t much return on investment, you know? Lately, though, he’d been even less productive and was putting more effort into the process, sometimes not producing anything. And he was beginning to be quite messy “back there.”

When I made the appointment at the veterinary hospital, they asked what problem Tango was having. Not having any idea what to say (“he has trouble pooping?” — is that really a problem?), I replied “Well, his butt hole is weird.” They took me at my word and scheduled the appointment.

The veterinarian took a look and agreed that his butt hole was indeed weird. (My words not hers, of course). Her words were “perianal fistula.”

What is perianal fistula?

It’s a serious medical condition that most commonly affects German shepherd dogs (obviously other purebred dogs are susceptible, too). A fistula is an abnormal connection between two tissues, organs, or vessels that don’t normally connect.

What are the signs?

“In its early stages of development, there may be few clinical signs and the condition may go unnoticed. Some cases are discovered during a routine physical examination or when the dog is being bathed or groomed. As the disease progresses, the affected dog will usually strain during defecation, and there will be blood in the feces. A decreased appetite (anorexia) is common in dogs with perianal fistulas. Usually, the dog will lick excessively at its tail and rectal regions. Some dogs will be reluctant to sit, some may not wag their tail normally, and some may become aggressive if the tail or hindquarters are touched.”

We didn’t have decreased appetite (he is a Labrador, after all), excessive licking, or any aggression. But we had everything else. The cause isn’t fully understood, but the condition could be related to an autoimmune problem.

How is it treated?

Back in ye olden days, dogs tails were often amputated because it was thought that a lack of air circulation led to the condition. Thankfully, there’s a little more (but not much) known about the condition and there are several courses of action that are most often prescribed. Because it may be an allergy or autoimmune issue, a hypoallergenic food trial is recommended. Topical tacrolimus helps to reduce the activity of the immune system (and has really seemed to help Tango’s condition significantly so far). In addition, ketoconazole and cyclosporine are often prescribed together. Because the condition is often very painful, veterinarians also integrate pain management in their treatment plan. Also, if there’s an infection, antibiotics are often prescribed, as well. Sometimes, none of the treatment solutions work and surgery is necessary. From what I’ve read, surgery is a last-ditch effort and comes with a bevy of risks and complications. I’m not a veterinarian, so please don’t rely on me for veterinary information, advice, or treatment. Take your dog to your veterinarian if you think something’s not quite right with your dog!

What’s Next

We’re staying on the course of specialty diet, tacrolimus, pain management, stool softeners, and frequent cleaning of the <ahem> affected area. He is now pooping more normally, with normal effort, and normal output. His butt hole is a lot less weird now, although it’s under constant watch.

Talk back!

Have you ever been embarrassed to tell your veterinarian what’s going on with your dog? Leave a comment and let us know!

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