Health & Medical

Weight loss for you and your dog. Or, more accurately, weight loss for ME and MY dog. You can jump on this train, too, but one of my resolutions was to speak only for myself, hence the clarification.

I spent most of this week at the North American Veterinary Conference (NAVC) in Florida, working to bring the word of positive reinforcement training to veterinarians and veterinary technicians. While I was there, I go to attend Getting Back Mobility: A New Therapeutic Approach to Managing Joint Conditions by veterinarian Darryl Millis [with a lot of letters behind his name – too many to list, actually]. This talk was all about nutritional management of osteoarthritis (OA).

My yellow Labrador, Tango, suffers from OA and I’m trying to be proactive so I’m not reliant on NSAIDs out of the gate. (NSAID is an easy way to refer to non-sterroidal anti-inflammatory drug.) NSAIDs are great for pain relief, but they can do a number on a dog’s liver if used long-term. Tango’s only 9 1/2 years old – I want to save the NSAIDs for when he’s an old, old man and there aren’t any other options to manage his pain.

I loved this talk because it showed me what veterinarians say to one another – they’re very matter of fact, research driven, and because there isn’t a client in the room, they can stick to just the facts without having to make the words pretty for the dog’s owner. Here’s the most important thing I learned: Weight loss is our #1 tool to manage OA.

Weight loss? Really. Weight loss is free. It doesn’t cost me anything to cut Tango’s calories. It’ll actually save me some money.

I’ve always tried to keep my dogs on the lower end of the normal weight range, but as they (and I) get older, it’s harder to keep those pounds from creeping on. I’ve also been trying to drop 10 pounds that somehow tagged along somewhere in my 4th decade.

Tango’s goal is to be between a 4 and 5 on the body condition scale. He was there a few years ago. To get there, he needs to lose about 6 pounds. For those keeping score, he’s 66.8 pounds today, and we’re working toward 60 – 62 pounds. The lighter, the better as far as OA is concerned. I want to lose 10 pounds. Nothing crazy — just get back to my regular old weight I’ve been all my life (until about 3 years ago).

So Tango and I are making a joint effort (get it? I’m too much sometimes, aren’t I) to lose some pounds. We’ll weigh in every week, tell you what’s working and what’s not on our quest for fewer pounds. How will we do it? The old fashioned way: exercise more, healthier food choices.

Where is your dog on the body condition scale? Have you been successful in dropping your dog’s weight (or your own?)? Share your tips below!

This goes without saying, but I’m a behavior person, not a veterinarian. If you are wondering about your dog’s body condition score, OA, or any other health-related issue, check with your vet. Also, check with your vet before putting your dog on any weight loss or exercise plan. 

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Does Your Pooch Have A Pooch? How To Help Your Pup Lose Weight

What Do I Do – My Dog is Scared!
September 2012

Having a timid dog can be
frustrating, time-consuming, and life limiting. And that’s just from your perspective. Think about what it
must be like for the dog, being scared of everything all the time. It’s safe to
assume that both ends of the leash
are stressed when there’s a fearful dog in the house.

When the latest service pup
in-training came to us at 11 weeks, she had virtually no experiences outside
her yard. An unfortunate circumstance, to be sure, but thankfully we still have
four weeks left before Siena’s socialization window is closed for good. What
that means is: we’ve got our work cut out for us and have no time to waste
thoughtfully introducing her to life outside the house. If you have an
adolescent or adult dog that is fearful, don’t fret – there are still things
you can do to help your dog overcome her fears. September’s newsletter will
help you teach your timid dog that life isn’t all scary.

Socialization Period

Puppies are malleable until
they’re about 16 weeks old. That means that you can help shape their outlook on
life relatively easily. Pups are born with a natural curiosity and it’s not
until about 16 weeks that pups start to become naturally more cautious and wary
of unfamiliar situations. If you have a puppy under 16 weeks, find dog-friendly
locations (around here both Southern States and Tractor Supply Co. allow dogs
in their stores) where you can get your pup out and about. Take really tasty
treats (think: cooked chicken or beef) to pair with those new and potentially
frightening experiences. Be sure to let your pup investigate the world at her
own pace – never force your pup to
move toward something or prevent her from moving away from something that she
finds frightening or intimidating. Between the ages of 8 and 16 weeks, it’s
crucial to get your pup into the situations in which she’ll be placed
throughout her life. For instance, if you ride horses frequently, be sure your
pup has good experiences around horses before she’s 16 weeks old. If you go
camping, plan a short camping adventure for your pup between the ages of 2 and
4 months.

 

Tools to Help the Fearful Dog

Siena came to us at 11 weeks
with no experience outside her home. She had never had a collar and leash on
before we got her. Everything was new
to her. And because she had no prior experience, everything new was also scary
for her. Thankfully, there are some products on the market to help fearful and
stressed dogs. We’re using them with Siena and finding pleasant results.

Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP): A natural form of dog-appeasing
pheromone is secreted from mother dogs immediately after they give birth. This
pheromone has calming effects in both young and adult dogs in variety of
stressful situations. A synthetic version has been created and has been
effective treating dogs with separation-related behavior problems, phobias, and
hyper-attachment. Dog-appeasing pheromone has been reported to reduce
separation-induced anxiety, fear in puppies in a new environment, and anxiety
and stress in the car. It can also reduce anxiety of aggressive dogs, and
anxiety of puppies in learning and socialization. DAP has no toxicities or side
effects and is particularly beneficial for sick and geriatric dogs (Can Vet
J. 2010 April; 51(4): 380–384. Efficacy of dog-appeasing pheromone (DAP) for
ameliorating separation-related behavioral signs in hospitalized dogs.)

DAP is available in several
forms: a room diffuser, a spray (to spray directly on bedding, for example),
and a collar. Use can use the different forms together or alone. We’re using
the DAP collar on Siena. I’m also using the spray to helping her relax in the
crate, and also in public. Where to Buy: online,
your veterinarian, or most big box pet supply stores. Prices run about $20 –
$25 depending on the retailer.

Thundershirt: The
Thundershirt is very much like a tight, stretchy t-shirt. You wrap it around
your dog and it has a “swaddling effect” on some dogs. The gentle, constant
pressure has a dramatic calming effect for most dogs if they are anxious,
fearful or over-excited. As for why
Thundershirt’s gentle pressure works to calm a dog, experts such as Dr.
Temple Grandin believe that pressure
has a calming effect on the nervous system. Using pressure to relieve anxiety
has been a common practice for years. Where
to Buy: online at www.Thundershirt.com,
other online pet supply retailers, from your veterinarian, trainer, or most big
box pet supply stores. Use code FE512 for free embroidery! Cost is about $25 –
$40 depending on vendor.

Through A Dog’s Ear: Music soothes the savage
beast. It’s true! Through a Dog’s Ear is a clinically researched
auditory solution for canine behavior issues. The over-arching psychoacoustic
theory informing Through a Dog’s Ear is summed up in just two
words — simple sound. This term refers to the process of
minimizing intricate auditory information found in most music. The music
of Dog’s Ear is intentionally selected, arranged and recorded
to provide easeful auditory assimilation. I’ll be honest: I don’t know exactly
how it works. But I do know that there is a lot of anecdotal and empirical data to support the claim
that music can really help calm your dog. I’m playing it as I type this
newsletter and all four dogs are dead out asleep. Where to Buy: online at Through A Dog’s Ear website.
At $9.99 for digital downloads and no
side effects, this is an easy and inexpensive solution.

Training, Behavior
Modification, and Your Veterinarian

Some
dogs respond well to one or more of these tools. Other dogs have deep-seated
fear and need more help. If you try the tools mentioned above (or a combination
thereof) and your dog is still distressed, it’s time to get a team of
professionals to help you. You’ll need a veterinarian with experience in
behavior (or a veterinary behaviorist, if one is near you), as well as an
experienced positive reinforcement trainer. The veterinarian will provide the
diagnosis after a consultation and physical exam. Your veterinarian will also
give you the prognosis as well as prescribe medication that might help
alleviate your dog’s anxiety. In addition to the diagnosis, prognosis,
medications, and physical exam, your veterinarian will likely recommend a
positive reinforcement trainer to help implement the behavior modification part
of the treatment plan. Working together with the veterinarian-trainer team,
your dog has a better chance of improvement.

 

Avoid These Pitfalls

Lack or Delay of Treatment: For a fearful dog or pup,
the worst treatment is no treatment at all. At the very least, try some of the
over-the-counter tools mentioned above. Living in constant fear or anxiety
isn’t a good life – for you or your dog.

Force: Let a fearful pup take his
time to approach the scary thing or place. Tugging on the leash, dragging him
along will not help him get over his fears. In fact, you’re likely to increase
the treatment time by forcing the pup to interact or tolerate the scary
situation or person.

Anger: Yelling at a fearful dog
will only increase his fear – of the scary situation and of you. Now, instead of the dog simply fearing one thing, it
now fears the thing and you – his
source of trust has just been eliminated. Always “prop your dog up” with
happy-go-lucky language and tone of voice instead of getting frustrated and
angry.

 

Problem Prevention

Getting
your puppy into training as soon as your veterinarian deems him healthy is the
best way to prevent fear from developing. If you just adopted an older dog,
find a positive reinforcement trainer who understands fearful dogs – get your
dog into a clicker training class as soon as he’s settled into your home (don’t
wait more than a month to start training, if your dog is healthy). Smart Dog
University offers Puppy Charm School
for pups 8 – 18 weeks. We cover all the puppy issues you’re likely to
encounter: puppy nipping, house training, crate training, puppy socialization,
and more! K9
Building Blocks classes are for dogs 18+ weeks old and we teach good
manners to your dog. Having a set of good manners already installed in your pup
or dog gives you lots of tools to help combat fear in your dog!

 

 

 

*I wasn’t compensated in any way from any of the
companies who manufacture or sell the products listed above. In fact, they aren’t
even aware I recommend them or their products. Nor will I get any compensation
as a result of your purchases. I simply hope any of the products helps your
fearful dog. 

This sweet 10-year old Labrador (Lily’s her name) is in her own little version of doggie-hell.

This is a dog who was released from the service dog program, in part, because she hated (and I do mean hated) wearing her vest. Keep that little nugget in mind as you read.

She’s had an ear infection (our oh-so-mild winter means her allergies haven’t gone dormant) so I’ve been putting meds in twice a day. Monday I noticed that she had what looked like a giant marshmallow at the base of her ear. It was big, puffy, and looked awfully painful.

The next day, our veterinarian diagnosed it as an aural hematoma.

It’s surprising to me that with all the Labradors we’ve raised (we’re on our 11th service puppy, for goodness sake), we’ve never had a hematoma in the bunch.

I should backtrack a bit to tell you what a hematoma actually is. It’s a pocket of blood on the ear flap that was caused by some sort of trauma. It can come from rough play, shaking the head too hard (or too often), or even by being bumped by another dog. Who knows where Lily’s came from.

Guess how you fix a hematoma?

Let me give you a hint: it’s not (unfortunately) by slipping a needle into the ear and draining the blood out. Yeah. The poor hematoma-ed dog has to have surgery. Surprised the heck out of me when the dear veterinarian said “we’ll do the surgery today.” Surgery? Today? Gulp.

Get this: the ear has to be sort of split into two, kind of like a sandwich. There’s the bread — the outside part of the ear; then there’s the sandwich filling — the cartilage in the ear; and the other slice of bread — the opposite side of the outside of the ear. So they split that ear wide open (my stomach is tightening just thinking about it), drain all the blood and yuck out of it, then sew both flaps back down. And they can’t just leave it like that or else the blood and yucky stuff will just re-collect right there and the ear will be as big as it was before the surgery.

So they sort of quilt the ear back together — they stitch what I call baffles into the ear.

They pretty much just make lots of little stitches through the ear so there aren’t any big pockets that can fill up with blood.

Here’s the worst part for my squeenchy stomach: they also leave these little slits in the ear so that if any blood and yuck are still left (and oh my, are they ever), they’ve got some exits. So we have to scrub the scab off those little slits every single day for a week.

You know how you score a loaf of bread as it’s baking so you can have that cool top on your loaf of bread? That’s exactly what those slits in Lily’s ear remind me of. I can’t clean it. I just can’t. I make my husband do that. I can’t even look at it, who am I kidding?

So anyway, I tell you all of that just so you can suffer through it like I do everyday. Because that’s the kind of girl I am, I like to share. The real reason for this post is how I’m trying to help my tactile phobic (she hates anything touching her and would rather die than have medicine administered) dog get through this tactile-loaded situation.

I can’t slowly get Lily used to this process.

The medicine’s got to go in two times a day and that ear has to be scrubbed. She hates it, period. But here’s how I help her:

• I don’t call her to me to administer her meds or mess with those slits. That would completely ruin her “come when called” behavior. No dog will come to you voluntarily to have something yucky done to them. I simply go to her.
• I don’t sneak up on her. I let her know I’m coming and I show her that I have “the instruments.” I want her to feel safe and not have to worry every time I approach her if I’m hiding the syringes from her. She knows right away whether or not it’s time for the dreaded ear-treatments.
• I’m quick and efficient. I don’t drag it out. I get in, I get out. My telling her how much this doesn’t hurt and how sorry I am is lost on her. I’m doing her more of a favor by getting the process over as quickly as possible instead of apologizing to her
• I heavily reinforce her with high-value stuff. The past few treatments, the reinforcer has been Vienna Sausages (don’t judge). Tonight we’re opening a can of canned salmon. It doesn’t undo the horrors of being medicated, but I can tell you this: it looks like she really enjoys those treats at the end!

We’re in this ’til Tuesday, when we can drop back to messing with her just once a day. And then it’s just another week or so more, ’til Lily can get out of her doggie-hell.