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Run With Your Dog: Update on my C25K Training

December 23, 2013

I’m not a pretty runner.

And I don’t mean good looking. I mean: I don’t look like a runner. I look like someone trying to imitate a runner. Someone doing a horrible job at imitating a runner, to put it accurately.

I’m about halfway through my Couch to 5K (C25K) running program.

For all the details on C25K, check out this article. I’m almost halfway through the entire program. Give me another four or five weeks (depending on weather) and I’ll be able to run a 5K without stopping. This deserves some celebration! When I finish the fourth week, I will order myself something good. (I’m thinking either heart rate monitor or some new running clothes.) C’mon! I specialize in positive reinforcement behavior training — you should expect these incremental rewards from a dog trainer.

The C25K program begins by focusing simply on time spent exercising. They don’t really care how far you go, you just need to do a specific number of run/walk combinations.I’ve been pushing it a little harder than what the program requires. I wanted to cover 3 miles from the beginning. When I started, I did the required number of run/walk combinations, but by the program’s 1/2 mark, I’d only covered about 1/3 of my route. No matter, I simply added that extra distance onto the end of the C25K program. I walked the additional distance in the beginning, as my endurance was miniscule.

Today, though, halfway into the 8-week C25K program, I did an entire 3.1 mile jog! I walked when the program instructed me to, did my run/walk combinations like a good girl, then — for the first time — jogged the remaining distance I had to cover after I’d already met the duration requirements of the C25K.

Through the power that is shaping, I succeeded!

I lower my eyes admitting this: shaping works for people! I already know this. I’m a dog trainer with a Masters degree in psychology. I know behavior. But, confession time — even though I know it works, I have trouble believing it will work on me! Isn’t that silly? I mean, why wouldn’t it work on me? I’m not a special exception. I’m a being with a brain. The laws of behavior work on me the same way they work on every living creature.

Yet still, I’m surprised when shaping works on me.

Silly? Yes. But fun, too. I was ecstatic when I was able to run that last entire leg — that leg that went above and beyond what the C25K program requires. I’m on the right track! Pun intended.

Lily the Labrador hasn’t accompanied me the last several runs simply because the weather is too cold or rainy for a dog.

Don’t get me wrong, she could easily handle it. I simply haven’t run outdoors because it’s too dangerous to run the roads lately. I’m not worried. Lily’s fitness level puts mine to shame. And she’ll be 12 in another month! But look out Lily! I’m getting better! Soon, we’ll be running the whole 3.1 miles, girlie. She’ll be so happy, my jog is her ideal pace. She tolerates my walking. Barely.

How to Teach Your Dog to Come When Called

December 19, 2013

Teaching a dog to come when called is on the top of my “must teach” list.

Caysun was playing with about ten other dogs (safely in a fenced yard). She was by far the youngest pup of the group and was really enjoying herself. The play was getting a bit rough and she was a fair distance away from me. I called her name “Caaaaaysun! Here!” Her head shot up, reminding me of a meerkat, and she dodged a dog on her right, scooted past a dog immediately in her path, lost her footing because she turned so quickly, and then made a beeline for me. She couldn’t get to me fast enough! Tail wagging, her nose bounced off my hand and she sat, pretty as you please, at my feet. Now THAT’S a recall! I gave her a piece of chicken and released her back to play with the others.

Caysun’s behavior isn’t uncommon. I took the time to teach her how exciting it was when I yelled the word “Here!” and how much fun it was to touch my hand. She has a stellar recall to this day.

“Come” is something that young pups can learn, as well as old dogs. So what, exactly, does come when called mean to the dog? It means “Come here, quick! There’s a party going on and you’re invited!” I like to teach the dog something very specific to do when I call. I teach the dog to touch his nose to my hand. Here’s my reasoning: If you just teach the dog to come closer, that’s way too vague. “Closer” means nothing. And in an emergency (the dog slips his leash on the corner of a busy street), you need the dog to come to you and be right by your side for safety’s sake.

Thankfully, teaching your dog to come to you when called is really easy, if you follow these guidelines.

Teach your dog that touching his nose to your hand is a good thing.
Present the hand straight down by your side, next to your pant leg.
When your sure the dog will touch your hand when you put it down, add the word. Say “Here!” in a happy, fun voice, then put your hand down.
Start increasing distance one step (take a step backward, then call the dog) at a time.
After your dog is able to come from a distance of about 20 feet, switch to working on distractions.

Here’s a how-to video to show you the steps to teach your dog a reliable recall.

Rules for the Human

Reward the dog generously every time he comes!
Don’t use the word (I use “here”) to start something yucky
Don’t use the word to stop something fun
Reward the dog even if he stopped along the way, or didn’t come right away
Make him believe the party is where YOU are!
Never (EVER!) scold or correct your dog if he comes to you. If you feel the need to discipline your dog, you go to him to do it. (For the record, Smart Dog U does not advise scolding your dog. But that’s an entirely different article.)

You know you’re doing it right when your dog comes bounding to you! See Schooner demonstrate an enthusiastic dog in the next “Come When Called” article!

Your turn: Has a reliable recall ever saved your dog? Leave a comment letting us know how teaching your dog to come when called has come in handy.

What to Do If Your Dog Doesn’t Listen in Public

December 4, 2013

Teach Your Dog to Behave in Public

I was surprised when my article (My Dog Listens In Obedience Class, But Not At Home!) was met with the cry of “I have the opposite problem! My dog will listen, but only at when we’re home. He never listens at obedience class.” I assumed (never assume, I know…) the obedience class instructors would have covered that for the students – it’s a really common problem. Based on the response I got from readers, though, I thought this article might be able to help.

What’s Different In Public?

It’s not unusual for dogs to lose their minds when they leave home. Home is, well, sorry to say it folks, but: kind of boring. It’s the same old, same old. Yawn. But outside the yard? Now that’s exciting! Different surroundings are exciting! Different surroundings are distracting!

Here’s a good example of how even the tiniest of changes can profoundly impact our own behavior. I love Wegmans grocery stores (for the deprived folks who don’t have a Wegmans nearby, it’s a high-end, have-everything, destination kind of grocery store) and I have “my” Wegmans. A few weeks ago, I was outside my usual territory and needed to grocery shop. No problem, there was a Wegmans nearby and, well, Wegmans is Wegmans, right?

Yes. And no. Yes, it was Wegmans. The signage was the same and the displays were similar. But the store was set up slightly different than “my” Wegmans. Instead of the bakery being off to the left like it is at my usual store, it was on the right. No big deal, I figured. Groceries are groceries. Well, no. I realized after I’d gotten home that I forgot half the things I needed. All because that slight alteration was enough to throw me off. What seems like a simple thing can actually be quite distracting. Distracting enough to throw off even us “higher beings.”

So, let’s not label the dogs’ distraction at obedience class as “silly,” or as “blowing you off.” No, it’s real, that distraction! And distraction (or excitement) means that performance will suffer. That dog that always sits, no matter what? It’ll look like he has selective hearing. The dog that never jumps, he’ll have his paws all over people. Not because he’s dumb, stubborn, or dominant – just because he’s distracted!

Strategies to Help

What’s a good dog owner to do when his dog is a maniac in dog obedience class? A good obedience instructor will implement one or more of these strategies:

Use something to help block your dog’s view of the other dogs (put you in an adjacent room, use a sheet-covered ring gate, etc.).
Add distance between your dog and the other dogs and people.
Suggest you bring really delicious treats to class. No Milk-Bones, people! Real human food like chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc. Don’t be stingy!
Reward your dog for anything and everything that’s not bad. Your dog is silent? Click and treat! Yes, even if he didn’t look at you, click him for not barking (if barking is an issue in class). Find something your dog can do and click and treat him for it!
Get your dog to class a little early so he has a chance to sniff and explore before other dogs arrive.

Teach Your Dog

Remember that dogs need to be taught how to do a task before it’s fair to ask them to do that task. This sounds so simple, yet I work with people who keep saying “sit, sit, sit, SIT!” When I ask them if their dog knows how to sit, they say “No, but if you say it enough, he’ll eventually do it.” Sorry, guys, but that dog doesn’t really know sit. Teach your dog how to do something in a quiet, distraction-free environment.

Keys to Success

Progress gradually. After you’ve taught your dog what he needs to know and he’s aced it at home, it’s time to take that new knowledge out in the world. Here’s where you play a huge part in your dog’s success: you have to ramp up the distractions in teeny-tiny increments. The responsibility for your dog’s success falls squarely on you at this point. Set your dog up to succeed!

dog training, treats, dog treats, puppy class, puppy training, Frederick

Delicious dog treats.

Reward generously. Use top-shelf food – I’m talking ham, cheese, steak, chicken. No dry dog food. Don’t even think of using dog treats of the grocery store shelves, filled with artificial colors and animal by-products. Small, pea-sized pieces of human food are much better for your dog and way less expensive.

Keep your distance. Start off by asking your dog to do some easy tricks as soon as you exit the car. Don’t wait until you get to class to start working with your dog. That’s way too close to other dogs and people! Remember, you’re looking to make your dog successful!

Introduce requirements one at a time. It’s unfair to ask your dog for a sit-stay in a distracting environment unless you’ve already taught him how to (1) sit, (2) sit for a long time, (3) sit while something is distracting him, and (4) sit while you’re away from your dog. Each of those skills needs to be taught separately before you ask your dog to do all of them at once. Remember me at Wegmans – only the layout was different, yet I forgot half my groceries for goodness sake. Distractions are hard!

Be Patient

Learning to behave properly in class (anywhere in public, really) takes time. It takes effort. It takes persistence. It takes a good trainer – you! Be reasonable with your dog and ask him for only what you know he can do. Start in an easy location like your driveway, before you branch out to the local big box pet supply store. The more you teach your dog, the more places you’ll be able to go together. And isn’t that what having a dog is all about, in the end?

How (and Why) to Teach Hand Targeting – Video

November 28, 2013

Hand targeting is one of the easiest dog training behaviors you can teach your dog.

Hand targeting is dead simple and is ridiculously useful. I wish I’d known about the many uses of hand targeting when I had my “bad dog” Lucky. That dog taught me so much about dogs, behavior, and dog aggression. I was relatively new to dog training when I realized the extent of Lucky’s behavior problems and while I did the best I could with him, I was still learning and didn’t have the depth of knowledge I now have.

Hand targeting works great for all dogs and it’s great for lots of different situations.

You can use hand targeting to keep your dog’s focus on you (instead of the jogger, bird, other dog, rabbit, etc.). You can move your dog around easily (instead of tugging on his collar and forcing him to move). You can make veterinary or grooming visits go more smoothly by being able to direct your dog’s head and body in a specific direction (instead of manhandling him into the perfect position). You can use it to help with loose leash walking (the dog can’t forge ahead if he’s targeting his nose to your hand). You can also teach your dog a neat trick like ringing a bell to let you know he has to go outside (the bells are the new target!).

For service dog training, we use targeting to show the dog exactly where we want him to push something.

For instance, if the dog is learning to close a cabinet drawer, it’s very easy to get the dog’s nose in the right position so nosing the cabinet closed is a cinch.

This week’s dog training video highlights how easy it is to teach targeting to your dog.

Here are the steps outlined in the video:

Step 1: Hold your hand out flat, palm facing the dog. Drop your hand right down in front of your dog’s nose so he can’t miss it. Click and treat the instant you feel whiskers, nose, or tongue on your hand.

Step 2: When your dog is successfully tapping his nose to your palm when it’s right in front of him, begin to present your palm slightly to the right or left. Then present a little higher or a little lower.

Note: If the dog doesn’t move toward the hand within 2 seconds, pull your hand away and put it behind your back. Get your dog’s attention and the present the hand again, very close to his face.

Step 3: When your dog is good at tapping his nose to your hand no matter if it’s high, low, to the right or to the left, then present your hand again and pull your hand forward a few inches as your dog reaches toward your hand. The goal is that your dog will take a step or two while following your hand.

Step 4: Begin to move your hand further so the dog has to take several steps to follow your hand.

Your Turn: There are lots of uses for targeting. What situations do you think you can use targeting with your dog?

Attention! Get Your Dog to Pay Attention [Video]

November 21, 2013

Getting your dog to pay attention can be a challenge. There are so many interesting things out there! Squirrels! Birds! The wind! Joggers! Dogs! Pee! It hurts to know that pee ranks higher on your dog’s list of interesting things than you do, doesn’t it? The good news is that it doesn’t have to stay that way. You can be more interesting than the wind. Or pee.

This is the first video in a series where you’ll teach your dog to pay attention to you. This is pretty powerful stuff – are you ready for it?!

Let’s get started with some of the most common mistakes I see dog owners make when they try to get their dog’s attention:

Nagging. It sounds like this “Fido. Fido! Hey, Fido, look here! C’mon, Fido! Look at me, would you? Hurry up, you stupid dog. FIDO!” It’s almost like begging your dog to look in your direction. Does your husband, wife, child, boss ever get what they want when they nag you? Probably not. And if you do what they want, it’s probably grudgingly. I want your dog to want to look at you!
Bribing. Almost everyone is guilty of this mistake. Your dog won’t look in your direction, so you wave a treat directly in front of his face. Or maybe you say a favorite word like “treat,” or “go for a walk.” Bribes have no place in dog training. Bribes create sloppy and unreliable behavior from your dog. And you always run the risk of not having a good enough bribe.
Demanding. Some people demand that their dog pay attention. You’ve seen it, I’m sure: they’re at the park and they call their dog’s name. The dog is looking at the dog across the way and doesn’t turn around to his owner. The owner yanks on the leash, forcing the dog to turn his head away from the distraction and toward the owner. If there’s something I like less than bribes, it’s demanding something from your dog.
Being stingy. Occasionally, your dog will turn away from something really interesting and instead of having a party and celebrating this huge success, you ignore their success — or worse: you tell them to do something unappealing (like leave the dog park, for instance).

This video shows how you’re going to right those wrongs and get your dog’s attention quickly and easily.

Start in a quiet location — preferably in your house. Have some really delicious treats. Schooner’s eating cubed cheese and summer sausage. Wait for your dog to look at you.

Remain silent. You’re not doing anything to get your dog to look at you. Your job is to click at exactly the same time your dog looks at you or in your direction. That’s it.

Gradually, your dog will realize that looking at you causes you to click and give him a treat. This is where things get really fun! Your dog will start looking at you to get you to click. You saw on the video how I let the clicker do all the “talking,” and I stayed quiet while waiting for Schooner to look at me.

Before long, your dog will spend more time looking at you than at his surroundings. This is good! You’re making progress! It’ll then be time to add in some distractions. That video will be coming shortly. Until then, keep working on the steps in the video and you’ll be ready for the next installment of teaching your dog to pay attention to you!

Puppy Training: House Training (aka Potty Training) Setbacks

October 4, 2012

We had torrential rains all day recently.

Siena doesn’t like to get her feet wet, so getting drenched was not on her list of things to do that day. Which means she didn’t go to the bathroom outside very often. Which is a nice way of saying she went to the bathroom inside a lot.

I’ve been giving her more house freedom as she’s shown more mastery of her bathroom abilities.

She’s also been fairly good about going to the door — and even pawing at it — to tell me when to let her out. She’s also been in a heavy growth period which means she sleeps an awful lot. It’s easy to watch a sleeping puppy — they don’t make many house training accidents!

Anyway, yesterday and today have had more than their fair share of house training mistakes. Apparently Siena thinks that because she went to the bathroom inside on Tuesday, that now every day is go to the bathroom inside day.

Starting last night and continuing through the coming weeks, I’ve taken away a good portion of her house freedom.

Puppy gates are back up, we’re using the tether and the crate again, and she’s always in the same room as me. Not surprisingly, the puddle and pile count has decreased in direct proportion to the amount of supervision.

House training a puppy takes time.

And it’s really easy to be lulled into thinking your pup is farther along than she really is. If you notice that your pup is having more bathroom incidents indoors, simply tighten up your supervision: use that crate, the gates, tether, and keep that pup with you.

It’ll take Siena another week or two to get back on track — and even then I’ll keep a lid on her house freedom. I don’t need another regression in house training!

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