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Since the beginning of January, we’ve talked a lot about what to train your dog, why to train, how to train, and have even given you some ideas on how to get started training. Now, as your training has progressed, you need to “real-life” your dog’s skills.

The picture above was taken at a dog training conference dinner. Tango has perfected a real-life version of settle (which means lie down and relax, no matter what’s going on around you). At the dinner, there were other dogs, dinner was being served, and there was a speaker on stage complete with microphone and applause. There was a a lot going on. Yet Tango handled it with ease and actually went to sleep. It’s not out of reach — you can teach your dog to do it, too!

Real life is what happens in your everyday life — usually real life means distractions (the doorbell rings), distance (how far away can you be from the dog), and duration (how long can the dog keep doing whatever you’re asking). So: real life = distractions, distance, and duration, a.k.a. the three “Ds.”

Know that you can apply these principles to any behavior, not just laying quietly on a mat. You can use the information to help “real life” anything you’d like your dog to do.

There are several steps involved when creating a training plan.

Step One: Define precisely what the finished behavior look like.

What does the finished behavior look like? The dog is able to lie quietly (preferably sleep) on his mat for 45 minutes in a crowded room regardless of the noise level (or the lack of noise), foot traffic, or other distractions.

Step Two: Determine the skills your dog needs to be able to accomplish the behavior.

What does the dog need to learn? He already knows to go to his mat and lie down on cue: when I say “mat” he goes to his mat and lays down. So the skill is there, but we need to improve two things: this behavior in public settings and we also need to improve duration (how long can he do this behavior).

Step Three: Teach your dog the skills (the components of the behavior) he needs to accomplish the behavior.

What skills does the dog already have? He doesn’t need to learn any additional skills – he can already go to his mat and lay down. We need to work on two variables: distractions and duration.

Step Four: Create a training plan.

A good training plan breaks the behavior(s) into very small, easily accomplished steps, and should include distractions, duration, and distance. The settle training plan for the dog looks like this:

My job is to make it easy enough for the dog that he’s able to notice the distraction, but still be able to get to the mat and lay down.

In the beginning, to add a distraction I might tap my toes while I say “mat.” The instant the dog lies on the mat, I click and toss the treat off the mat. (Remember, we’re relaxing the requirement of Duration while we introduce Distractions.). Again, I’ll repeat this Distraction ten times to be sure the dog really has the concept before I increase the distraction.

Next time, I’ll clap my hands when I say “mat.” Other distractions can include: a ringing doorbell, someone running through the house, my body position (kneeling, laying on the floor, standing facing the opposite direction, waving my hands in the air, etc.).

This also includes changing locations. I would start inside the house, then move outside (at my house), then to a public indoor location, then a public outdoor location. My goal is that the dog can go to his mat in a crowded public location both outdoors and indoors.

Because we’re introducing a new criterion (Distance), we’re going to relax the other two (Duration and Distraction). So we’re back inside the house with no Distractions, and we’re not going to require that the dog stays on the bed for any length of time.

I’ll start off asking “mat” from my regular position. When he does the behavior and I click and toss the treat off the mat, I’ll take half a step backward while he’s eating the treat. I’ll again say “mat.” If he lays on the mat (and doesn’t inch forward to try to be close to me), I’ll click and treat. I’ll ask for this behavior from this distance ten times in a row before taking another half step backward. My goal is that I can say “mat” from across the room and the dog can walk away from me and go to the mat and lay down.
Once I have all three pieces of the puzzle (Distraction, Duration, and Distance), I can begin putting them together.

I’ll choose two to work with first and I’ll keep both of them at their simplest levels. For instance, if I work on Distance and Duration, I’ll be one step away from the mat when I cue “mat” and I will click him after he’s been on the mat for one second.

Let me know —

What behavior do you think you’ll work on with your dog? Have you already gotten some success with “real-lifing” anything your dog already does?Leave a comment and let me know!