I’m a practical girl; I don’t want a lot of stuff taking up space. If I have something, it’s because I use it.
A lot. This article was born when I realized that over the past year, I’ve
found myself recommending the same things to clients, both in-home training and
in my group classes. These are the things I simply couldn’t live without,
things I use every day with my own dogs. This month, I’ll give you an inside
look at the three things I can’t live without (and I recommend you don’t live
without them either).
Food Stuffed Toy
Why it’s on the list: Inexpensive, easy to
use, used every day, solves many problems (or prevents problems from
Specifics: The two I use the
most are Kong and Busy Buddy. They come in all kinds of sizes, colors and
shapes. Some you can stuff with gooey things (Kong and Busy Buddy Squirrel
Dude) — and even freeze to make it more challenging for your dog — and others
can replace your dog’s food bowl (check out Kong Wobbler, Busy Buddy’s Magic
Mushroom for two “food bowl replacements).
Why you should have it: You can’t find a
better tool to teach your dog to love the crate (another tool I can’t live
without) than a food stuffed toy. The crate becomes the delivery spot for all
things food-stuffed! After just a few deliveries, your dog will start to run to
the crate as soon as you prepare his toy!
This is also a great way to teach your dog how to enjoy being alone. A
dog focused on his food stuffed toy won’t also be barking and worried that
you’re away from the house (or in a different room). If you need some alone
time (yes, even I occasionally need some time away from my dogs — to work on
this article, for instance), give your dog a food stuffed toy and enjoy the
silence and dog-free-ness. This is a great solution for both you and the
dog. Wanna know how to stuff one? Check this short video
Wondering how to teach your dog to enjoy and unload a food-stuffed
toy? Put a little bit of peanut butter,
cream cheese, or yogurt just inside
the opening and show it to your dog. You may need to hold the toy for him at
first, until he gets the hang of it. Make it super-easy at first, so the dog
understands very quickly just how rewarding the toy is.
Why it’s on the list: effectiveness,
solves many problems (or prevents problems from developing), occasionally not
an option (injured dog, veterinary stays, grooming appointments, boarding,
Specifics: There are several
types of crates: hard sided (airline) crates, soft (fabric) crates, and metal
(wire) crates. My favorite crate (for a dog that’s comfortable being crated) is
the soft crate because it’s light and easy to move (great for traveling with
Why you should have it: A crate helps keep
your dog out of trouble. Your dog can’t chew the sofa, pee on the rug, or get
into your closet to chew your shoes if he’s in his crate. I couldn’t raise a
puppy without a crate — the crate is both a playpen for the pup, as well as a
house-training assistant. It’s also where the pup relaxes, eats his meals, and
enjoys his food stuffed toy. All good things come from the crate.
The crate can be mandatory if your dog is recovering from an injury.
Crate rest is often prescribed for dogs recovering from surgery. The crate
limits your dog’s mobility and increases the chances of a quicker recovery.
Often, boarding kennels may require that your dog be crate-savvy so they can
ensure your dog’s safety. Sometimes, groomers will hold your dog in a crate
either before or after grooming, so it’s very important that your dog is
comfortable with crating.
If your dog hasn’t ever been in a crate before or has a bad
association with the crate, use the food stuffed toy to help him discover that
the crate contains all things fabulous. Feed your dog’s meals in the crate,
deliver all treats and food stuffed toys to the crate. Check out how much this dog loves the crate!
Why it’s on the list: it’s crazy
effective. This is the primary way I teach all my dogs, client’s dogs, and
service dogs their good manners and skills.
Specifics: There are a couple
types of clickers out there — different sizes and types, and some are softer
than others. It’s really a matter of personal preference (which one feels
better in your hand, and which one your dog prefers).
Why you should have it: Put simply, there’s
no easier or faster way to teach your dog good manners than with a clicker. The
clicker tells your dog when he’s doing something right and that he’s earned a
reward. As soon as your dog figures out that when you click, he gets a treat,
he’s on board immediately, trying to get you to click him. Because he’s trying
to get you click, that means he’s trying to do what you want him to do. Right
away, you and the dog are on the same page, trying to reach the same goal. No
more fighting with your dog! Here’s a great example of a dog learning to wait at the gate with the clicker.
There you have it: the three tools I don’t live without and the tools
I recommend most often to my clients. They’re all relatively cheap and worth
every penny in the problems they prevent and the solutions they provide.
Is there something on YOUR list of things you can’t live without?
Leave a comment and let us know!
Pamela | Something Wagging This Way Comes says
All three are on my must haves as well.
I’ve also found an x-pen insanely useful for fostering dogs. It provides safety while eating or to keep Honey from playing with a dog recovering from surgery while still allowing more freedom than a crate.
Good choices…I would have to add a fourth…poo bags!
I like to take my dogs a lot of places so I have plastic bags stashed everywhere…just in case.
Sara Reusche says
Great list! I would add leashes to this. Besides the obvious exercise and safety uses outdoors, I use leashes indoors with puppies and new foster dogs. Dogs can drag a light leash (with the handle cut off for safety) around the house so that I can easily redirect them and prevent the “chase me, I stole something that belongs to you” game from developing. A leash attached to my belt loop keeps a dog with me, and if I’m working the leash can be used to tether the dog nearby so I can keep an eye on them. When introducing dogs to one another, they can drag their leashes in a safely fenced area so that I can easily interrupt over-the-top play before it escalates.
Baby gates! I am constantly using gates to manage dogs. They can be good for managing interactions between dogs, controlling dogs’ access to certain parts of the house, and enforcing timeouts/quiet time.